How To Repair Drivers Side A/c On A 2009 F150 Lariat With Dual Temperature Control

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A Ford F-150'south blend door is the device that controls how much heat or AC comes through the HVAC organisation. For the last xx or thirty years in these trucks, they have been prone to failure. I love my truck, merely I wish Ford had stock-still this problem past now. On the plus side, where older generations required disassembling the nuance to gear up, the 2009-2014 generation'southward most common problem can be fixed with the nuance left in place. Truthfully, the work isn't actually that bad. The replacement actuator, available here online or at a local Autozone, costs between $twenty and $35.

Diagnosis

You'll know you demand to perform this procedure if you hear a loud, persistent POP dissonance whenever you switch your HVAC to "full cold". If you switch it towards rut a little bit, and the racket stops, your F-150 blend door actuator has gone out. A common issue in these trucks is the failure of the potentiometer that senses when the actuator has turned fully. The truck effectively doesn't "know" how far to turn the door. The popping noise is the actuator trying to turn further than it is able to.

Fortunately, this job isn't nearly as bad as in older generations of F-150s. It can exist done in < 30 minutes and just requires a $thirty function. If you get a mechanic to do it, it generally costs an hour or two of labor.

Tools required

You lot need an 8mm box wrench, forth with a 7mm or equivalent SAE socket and socket wrench. I used a paint can opener to assist pull the plastic off.

Removing the plastic trim and stereo

This trim console pulls straight out

The blend door is actually behind the radio, and so the kickoff step is to get the radio out. The silver panels on each side of the radio simply pull straight out equally pictured.

Pulled off, not necessary to disconnect

This console will pull entirely out, if you elevator up just slightly on the other paneling it is defenseless behind. You don't have to pull it out all the way like this, you can instead just pull it out an inch or and so to become to the radio, as I do with the panel on the right in the next step.

This console tin can hang hither – You can practise the same thing with both panels, really

The console on the right side comes out the aforementioned fashion. This i is a bit more of a hurting to fully remove, and so I just left it equally pictured. This is enough to become access, so you can do this on both sides if you adopt.

Remove the trim on top of the radio

The radio has a piece of rubber trim hiding two of the bolts that need to come out. You can only pry this upwards and pull information technology out. It doesn't really lock in place or anything, it but sits there inside of a groove.

I used a 7mm socket to remove both bolts

A iii″ extension helps

There are two screws underneath the safe trim that need to come out. I used a 7mm socket, which fit fine. I assume an SAE equivalent could piece of work every bit well.

4 more bolts

4 more bolts

four more than bolts

4 more than bolts

At that place are also four more bolts on either side of the radio, every bit pictured. They are removed with the same socket. On my truck, the radio and the HVAC controls were connected together, so I had to remove them both as a unit. If your truck has a dissever radio, you lot may be able to leave some of these bolts in identify.

Pull on the radio

Pulls directly out

Then, the radio panel itself just pulls directly out. I started prying from the elevation. The radio and HVAC controls came out as a unit.

Outset clip

Second clip

More clips

I unclipped plenty of the connectors to the radio front panel so that it could comfortably hang out of the manner. This was primarily the top two.

Radio has four screws

The radio itself has 4 screws, one time the panel is off.

Pulled out

I removed all of the radio's connectors

With the four screws removed, the radio just pulls straight out. I unclipped all the connectors, 4 I retrieve, and tossed the radio on the floor of the cab for the time beingness.

Removing the old actuator

The actuator is the blackness box on the right

In one case the radio is out, you can run across the actuator. It is the black box on the right. It is held downwardly past two screws, both of which have 8mm heads.

First screw is easy

The beginning screw is easy to remove. It's sitting right in forepart, easily accessible. The rear spiral requires going through the glove box.

The glove box will fully drop if you open it, compression the sides, and lower it further

Attain upward through the glove box

Not much room to work, helps if you have piffling girl hands like me

Yous want an 8mm box wrench for this task

To become to the rear screw, yous lower the glove box, pinch the sides, and and then lower it further. That keeps it nice and out of the way. Then, you can reach up through the glove box to the actuator area. Y'all'll need to utilise an 8mm box wrench. I used my left hand to go along the wrench on the spiral, while I unscrewed with my right. Information technology's a little uncomfortable, just certainly doable.

Actuator only lifts off

The actuator itself only lifts off. There is a small-scale plastic gear on the bottom, so it needs to come direct up.

Wiring connector

There is one wiring connector on information technology to disconnect. Y'all but push the red tab back to unlock information technology, and then pull it off.

New Actuator

Dorman role – DOES Not WORK

Now obviously y'all need a new actuator to put in. I first got the cheapest Autozone replacement – a Dorman office. This DOES NOT work. The connections to the truck are correct, but as you can see, information technology has a thicker profile than the Ford original. The top of information technology hits a brace in the dash when you lot effort to install it, and makes it most impossible.

A commenter below mentioned that Autozone gave me the wrong actuator, and it should have been Dorman 604-252. I oasis't tried it myself, but y'all may have better success. Another commenter below noted that this Dorman function is still slightly thicker than the TechSmart / OEM versions, and and so may be harder to install. YMMV. If you want to be condom, you tin can social club the i I used from Amazon, as some other alternative.

TechSmart Actuator – this DOES piece of work

I went dorsum and got the slightly-more-expensive ($28?) TechSmart version of the actuator. Model is TechSmart F04002. This one much more closely matches the original, and goes in fine.

Re-installation is the verbal reverse of removal. It's pretty easy to do, just don't strength the actuator in. In that location is a missing tooth on the actuator's gear to key it to the door. Yous have to wiggle information technology around a little scrap, but as soon as it meshes properly, information technology volition slide right in.

Resetting the HVAC settings

Passenger kick panel fuse box

I don't know if this is strictly required, but it is part of the procedure for a new actuator. The following procedure will let the HVAC module recalibrate the actuator positions. Pull the HVAC command fuse in the box in the passenger boot panel (pictured) for a minute with the engine off and key removed. This fuse is #15 on older trucks, but was #42 on mine. Check your manual for the correct 1, the manual labels it "climate command". Then, re-insert, turn the truck on, and don't touch the HVAC for 30 seconds.

If yous did everything correctly, your popping noise should be gone regardless of how cold or hot you turn the HVAC.

Note for "Menstruum-Through" Consoles

The higher-trim F-150'southward have what's referred to as a menstruum-through console. Rather than having the standard center panel or jump seat, the console looks similar it is one piece from radio to console. The shifter, rather than beingness mounted to the wheel, is on the center console next to the cupholders. While I haven't done this job on a truck with that type of console, I believe the procedure is the aforementioned.

The only difference I encounter is that you would have to remove the trim next to the shifter outset, in club to exist able to get to the trim near the HVAC console. This is covered in the offset few minutes of this youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/lookout man?five=Yx2pETbNhCY

If anyone has this truck and tries it, please let me know in the comments how it worked out for you.

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Source: https://did-it-myself.com/replacing-2011-f-150-hvac-blend-door-actuator/

Posted by: craigstoing.blogspot.com

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